Thursday, September 28, 2006

I Want Money For Doing Nothing

Hello! And welcome to 'I Want Money For Doing Nothing', the top-rated Dutch quiz show which gives YOU the opportunity to do exactly what you've always wanted: get lots of money.... for doing nothing!

Regular viewers will know how simple the rules are! A series of 'moral dilemmas' are posed to our contestants. Those who guess the answers correctly, based on our survey of 100 Dutch people, wins the round! First to 3 rounds wins!

Let's meet our contestants! First up is Elisabeth, she's 43 and works at a tanning salon. What's that? You're 23? I'm so sorry, forgive me! We also have Peter who is on long-term, stress-related, sick leave from his job as a hand model. Finally, we have Marieta, who works as a waitress in Amsterdam. Er.... where is she? .... Hold on, I've just been told that she is very busy and will be with us in another 6 hours!

OK - let's get started! Scenario 1: you see an old person wandering and disoriented. They are clearly distressed and confused. The question is: what do you do?

Elisabeth - go through their pockets?!
Peter - pressurise them to sign a will leaving everything they own to you?!

Peter! That's excellent. 98% of the Dutch public agree with you! You're 2 steps from the money!

OK - Scenario 2. You have 2 friends who each helps out with a charity and has asked you to help with door to door collections. One collects for famine relief. The other collects for rehabilitation of Dutch paedophiles. The question is: what do you do?

Elisabeth: the paedophiles, of course!
Peter: do both on alternate days, then take the money?!

Oh! Bad luck Elisabeth! Peter's just shaded that one with 75% of Dutch people agreeing! Peter - you're just 1 step from the money! Elisabeth - come on! You need to start fighting back here!

It's time for Scenario 3. You are walking in the centre of Amsterdam when you see an immigrant distressed: their house is on fire and their children are trapped inside! The question is: what do you do?

Elisabeth, you go first here - and remember, go with your instincts. What do you think most Dutch people would do?

Elisabeth: eat a herring?!!!
Peter: it's a trick question! An immigrant would never be allowed to live in the centre of Amsterdam!

Oh Peter! You've done it again and you're our winner! You've won €5! Well done!

Join us next time for more "I Want Money For Doing Nothing". Or you can catch Peter again as he'll automatically go on to our other exciting show "I Wish I'd Never Got Money For Doing Nothing Because If I Try To Spend It, People Will Think I'm Showing Off".

Good night!

Monday, September 25, 2006

Wordsh Will Help You!

Note: in the interests of balance and fair comment, today's blog posting has been made by a Dutch guest editor

Doooooooooooook! Oy! Oy!

Everyone in the world knowsh 2 things: (1) that Holland is the greatest country in the world; and (2) that Dutch people are the besht at everything! All who live here are lucky! Everyone in the world shecretly wishes they are Dutch! Dutch is the most beautiful language in the world! William van Shakespeare is a Dutch! So is the shinger Van Morrisson! The world comes to Holland! That's why the country is so crowded! But there are not so many problems. Everyone is happy. Everything is lekker!

It is not true that we do not have shervishesh here! I go to Febo for my dinner and can pick my own food! In restaurantsh, I am allowed collect my own menu, search out my own drinks, carry my own plate! In shopsh, I can look at picturesh of things I can have in my house in 7 monthsh! Now that is shervish!

It is a lie we do not have food that is lekker! Julienne of bitteballe, with cabbage confit and jus de herring is my favourite!!

Even though Dutch are the greatesht at everything and all other people are shits, we are very modesht and egalitarian! No-one is allowed to be flashy in Holland and show trappings of wealth. This is because we are all the shame! (well, exshept the outsiders from other landsh). It is nothing to do with us being bitter and reshentful that other people may shucksheed by not shitting on their arshe!

We are not rashist here! I even have a black friend, Sooty! Sometimes, I eat oranges that come on boats from black countries! If I was rashsist, I would not be able to peel them!

I don't undershtand why the foreigners think we are humourless and aggreshive?! It is shimply not true! If you don't like it here, why not fuck off?!!

Doooooooooooooook! Oy! Oy! Austublieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeft!

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Oranjestan

A couple of weeks ago, I speculated what life would have been like had the Brits not kicked the Dutch out of New Amsterdam? If the U.S.A. had never happened? Instead, if by some grotesque quirk of history, the Dutch had remained and become the world's dominant cultural power? How different would things be?

It's relatively easy to piece this parallel universe together by looking at other countries' experience of Dutch colonial rule, and other communities where the Dutch and their ancestors have flourished.

Two examples stand out above all others: the Boers and the Amish. The Boers settled South Africa and quickly set about implementing State-sponsored segregation of people along colour lines: white or Zwarte Piet. This became known as 'apartheid', which is the Dutch word for 'separateness', and the English word for 'racism'.

On the other side of the world, the Amish community represents the product of almost 350 years of uninterrupted Dutch social development on American soil. Their guiding principles are to shun all modern forms of technology and to live a simple life, plodding and untainted by modern artifices, like medicine and telecommunications.

Imagine if these 2 unique Dutch contributions to world culture had been allowed to develop unchecked? Would we still be tilling soil by hand? Or, more likely, would slaves be doing this? Would medical science be laughably underdeveloped? Modern services and conveniences would still be the stuff of science fiction. If there was any science. Or fiction.

It's sobering to think what Oranjestan could have been like. Backward and insular, mean to minorities, resistant to change, with an acute hostility to progress and development. Basically, exactly like modern Holland. Only bigger.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Tick, tock

Time is a complicated thing in Holland. It means different things, to different people, in different circumstances. While one person or situation may call for absolute punctuality, another may excuse extreme tardiness.

Of course, timekeeping can be a very subjective thing and we all have friends who can be maddeningly late. But in Holland, there is another dimension to time. The variations are not as simple as 'early/ on time/late'. There are entire additional sub-species at work, and I'm not just talking about restaurant staff.

1. Too Much Time

Ask someone to do something and you can often be told "that will take too much time". There's a critical piece missing here. What the person means is that it will take too much of their time. Or to paraphrase, "Go away - I can't be arsed". The uninitiated or unfamiliar may think this rude or incompetent, but it is actually the distillation of hours of careful customer service training.

In an effort to move people on from the ubiquitous, knee-jerk "it is not posssshibollll", this new phrase has entered the Dutch service lexicon. The hope is that the customer will take the "it will take too much time" brush-off on face value, and leave the Dutchie to get back to reading their comic.

The problem is that, demonstrably, what you're asking for won't take too much time. Typically, it is the most straightforward thing in the world. The other day, I bought a cinema ticket online. When I got to the cinema, the ticket dispenser was broken. So I joined the queue for the ticket desk. When I explained I had already booked and paid for my ticket but couldn't retrieve it, the woman behind the counter shrugged and pointed at the next customer, beckoning him forward.

Me: "Hello? Can you give me my ticket?"

Her: "It will take too much time."

Me: "Huh? Just look it up on you system and print it off."

Her: "It will take too much time."

Me: "Well, I ain't moving, so do it, or call your supervisor."

Her: [Theatrical sigh] "What is the credit card number you used to book?"

I gave her the number; she tapped in the last 4 numbers; the tickets were printed automatically. In total, the whole thing took about 3.5 seconds.

Me: "See - that didn't take much time at all, did it?"

Her: [Stares venomously in silence, eyes filling with hatred].

2. Be On Time

God help you if you are a billionth of a nanosecond late for an appointment with a Dutch official. It's a major disaster for you, but the sweetest feeling in the world for them. Naturally, we all try to be on time for our appointments. But stuff happens. Like no-one will give you change at the railway station so you can buy a ticket. Or a delivery truck parks for 2 hours and blocks off the entire road. Or it pisses rain for hours and causes delays to traffic.

Even if you're 1 minute late, the Dutch official will smugly book you in for another appointment, in 2 weeks' time; then go back to picking their nose.

Once, I was just 3 minutes late for an 8 a.m. appointment at the tax office. I was the only person in the building, apart from the 43,000 employees sitting behind the counter, each of whom was doing nothing. The man I dealt with practically had a hard-on telling me that I had missed my appointment and that it was not possssshibollllll to see me now, even though the allotted appointment time was 30 minutes. As I protested, he said "words will not help you - come back in 2 weeks".

At least I got a good blog title out of it.

3. Don't Be On Time

How long would it take you to carry a sofa for 3 miles? Factor in frequent pauses for rests. It would be pretty slow - right? Even assuming you carry it 3 steps per hour, you'd still make it in a month. Which means you'd beat Jenckinova, de Bijenkorf, or any other Dutch store by 6 months.

Why is that, when you want something, and are prepared to pay for it, you still have to wait for months to receive it? When I moved here, my Dutch relocation agent gave me a book on Dutch business etiquette. Having read it cover to cover in 9 seconds, I remember one of the points being that "Dutch people expect you to be on time and it is considered rude to be late". But this is only one half of the equation, and it doesn't work.

Dutch people expect timeliness when you are coming to see them, but think it's perfectly acceptable to be light years late when they're coming to see you. If you're late, you get pious mooing. If they're late, you still get the pious mooing, coupled with shoulder shrugging and hostility.

4. The Land That Time Forgot

Even while time is passing all around the world, it seems to have stood still in Holland. Or rather stopped. I think at one point, time may have been on fast-forward here in social terms in that Holland was, briefly, a liberal, open and tolerant society. That is certainly the reputation it has garnered worldwide and how the country and Dutchies like to market themselves.

But it's like a Victorian seaside resort proclaiming that it offers the most entertaining holiday imaginable. Trying to lure people with donkey rides and Punch and Judy shows, while everyone's gone to Las Vegas or a spa in the Maldives.

I accept that Holland did, historically, embody some liberal values. But the world has grown up, moved on, and overtaken it.

Sunday, September 17, 2006

Miss Holland

The Miss Amsterdam contest has ended with one woman being crowned winner at a lavish ceremony at a kebab shop in Rembrandtsplein. She will now go on to represent the country in the Miss World contest, embodying all the cultural and social values of modern Holland.

Round by round, the contestants were whittled down to the 3 finalists, each of whom triumphed in rounds such as speed-tanning; golliwog-making; and shoulder-shrugging.

A controversial note was struck when the second runner up declined her award and officially withdrew from the contest at the final stage. This woman, who had originally settled in Holland from Indonesia at the age of 4, walked away, having had enough of the Parish Council's members' requests to fetch them drinks and clean up after the other contestants. The final straw appeared to be the requirement that she wear a sash reading "allochton"* for the latter stages of the competition. When asked why she hadn't been made to wear this from the outset, the Parish Mayor confessed he had thought she was a member of the janitorial team until guest judge, the Mayor of Minsk, had corrected him.

Perhaps recognising that the allochton tag might be a bit crass in 1806 - sorry, I meant 2006 - the runner up was chosen specifically for the fact that she demonstrated values of multiculturalism and openness. The crowd oohed and aahed as they heard her speak about her travels beyond the parish limits. A modern day Vasco da Gama, not only had this woman been to places like Harlem and Amstelveen, she had in fact travelled the world! She had visited exotic countries like Germany and Belgium, having been to both Antwerp and Cologne on day trips from Amsterdam!Although she readily admitted that she didn't much like either place and was glad to get back to Amsterdam Parish, the crowd was captivated by her intrepid tales of exploration to lands few of them had even heard of.

And the winner? A woman who had quickly become the darling of the Parish Council with her sweet nature and deferential admiration for all the utterances and pronouncements of the Council's members. Agreeing that she simply "wouldn't worry her pretty little head" about things too much, she shared the waffles and cakes she had baked and giggled as the Mayor of Minsk winked at her. There was one challenging moment when a reporter from a foreign newspaper asked her how she felt about the statistic that, although women make up 40% of the Dutch workforce, fewer than 1% occupy senior management positions? But she disarmed the crowd by confessing that maths wasn't her strong point and, besides, she'd only go off to have babies anyway, so she could completely understand.

* allocthon is an official Amsterdam Council classification of people as 'foreign' or 'not native'. Practically, Dutch people never call white North Americans or Europeans 'allochton', and it is reserved exclusively for non-whites, even those who have been born in Holland. Amsterdam Council resolved last week to continue classifying people in this way. The Hague Council voted to eliminate it some years ago.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Rules of Engagement

Did you know that, outside Scandinavia, Holland has the highest proportion of single person households in Western Europe? And that the proportion is growing?

Psychologists, economists and anthropologists have speculated on the causes, but no consensus as to the reason has emerged. Could it be that Dutch people prefer a life of solitude and contemplation? Or that they are innately independent and prefer to strike out on their own? Or that an existence in which someone else might nick your last herring out of the fridge and never buy toilet paper is too gruesome to bear?

My own view is that it is becoming increasingly difficult for the Dutch to meet potential partners. How do single Dutchies meet their soulmates? At least the ones who don't marry their cousins, or the person from the next village over? Their options appear limited.

We've already looked at the restaurant scene, and the only conclusion can be that an invitation to dinner is more a prelude to a break-up, or punishment.

Partner 1: "Honey, I'm sorry, I've been having an affair."
Partner 2: "That's it! I'm taking you to dinner!"

What else is there? Maybe something cultural, like a trip to a museum or gallery? Again, this option seems fraught with difficulty. Most of the Rijksmuseum is still closed for renovation. The temporary Stedelijk building has Legionnaire's Disease in its cooling tower and one person has already died there. Even scarier, the Van Gogh museum costs €10!

Maybe a romantic stroll in the Fondlepark? Again - problematic. In Deep Winter, it will be pouring with rain and hail, and you'll be buffeted by gales. In Winter, it will be full of Dutchies having herring-barbecues and Grandpa's Dicks.

Hmmmm. Shopping? The catch here is that the nutjob proprietor will throw you out of the place if you try to.... er, shop. God forbid you're holding a cup of coffee.

I know! How about good old-fashioned bar hopping? Meet your soulmate over some warm beer and a boiled egg? Again, the service and hygiene issues mean that this route is not guaranteed to achieve the results you wish. Plus, when a Dutch person goes Dutch on a bill, abacuses and calculators are at the ready. That can kill the mood.

Maybe they could go digital and try internet dating? But have you ever called a Dutch internet service provider and tried to get a working broadband connection installed at your home in under 37 years? Exactly.

Monday, September 11, 2006

Titter, titter

Dutch Comedian: Knock, knock!

Other Dutchie: Who's there?!

Dutch Comedian: You.

Other Dutchie: You who?

Dutch Comedian: You have a wife who is very ugly!

Other Dutchie: Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! HAAAH!

Ah - simple pleasures. Have you experienced Dutch humour? Still clutching your sides from the Mr Bean marathon they showed on your last klm flight? Or maybe your tummy hurts from chortling at the Benny Hill DVDs that have been passing around your office?

Dutch humour is very subtle. So subtle, that you could often miss it. By a mile.

We're not talking delicate, comedic insights here. It's a super-special, rarefied type of humour that is so understated and intangible, it often goes completely over the head of non-Dutchies.

Going to the barber the other day for a haircut, I noticed there were 3 other people ahead of me. So I asked the barber "how long will it be?" He said it would be around 20 minutes. "But on the other hand, it could be 21!" They all pissed themselves. The barber and other customers, chortling and guffawing, clapping their hands with glee. If only I could have thought of something equally witty, I could have felt included in their merry gathering - but alas, I had to leave defeated and dejected.

Perhaps I should have farted loudly to compete with their repartee? Because the surefire way to elicit a laugh from a Dutchie is to talk shit - literally. I've been at a meeting where, after a break, one Dutch colleague returned to the table from the bathroom, and pointed at another, announcing: "he has just done a big, smelly, shit - ho! ho! ho!" How we laughed at this Dorothy Parker-like epigram.

Interestingly, it is stupefyingly easy to wind up a Dutch person and watch how their face turns from 'you've got diarrhoea!' glee to stony-faced, cud-chewing, indignation. Simply turn the tables on them and make a joke about any aspect of Dutch life or culture. The tittering stops and the pious mooing begins, guaranteed within 15 seconds to induce an invitation to leave the country. It seems, as an expat, your choice is either to: (1) worship, venerate and unquestioningly adore every aspect of Dutch life; or (2) get the hell out. No room for anything in between.

Now that really is funny.

Thursday, September 07, 2006

Dutch Disco!

Have you seen the signs? All over shop counters and at kiosks? They're there if you look hard enough. If you can't see one, the Dutch person behind the counter will only be too delighted to point it out.

They tell you all the things that you can't do, have or get from your friendly Dutch service outlet. No change. No information. No credit. No tourist assistance. No stamps. No English. No clue.

What's even better is that if you ask a Dutchie for one of the forbidden fruits referred to in their charming signs, they point triumphantly at it. 'Look! It is not possshiboll to get change. It even shays sho!!!'

Combining two of their favourite things: (1) being unhelpful and (2) pointing instead of communicating, you will make a Dutchie's day by asking for something you can't have, and allowing them to point majestically at their sign, bursting with pride and satisfaction.

Depending on how many things you ask for, and the positioning of their friendly little signs, they can end up looking like demented disco dancers.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Black Pete


Even the name of this posting sickens me. If there is anyone Dutch reading this, is there any way you can justify the Zwarte Piet situation? For those of you yet to experience it, in early December, Dutch people consider it entertaining to decorate their homes and businesses with golliwogs. They like to 'black up', wear afros, and dress like buffoons. There is a parade of hundreds of these 'Black Petes' throughout the centre of Amsterdam and, no doubt, other Dutch hamlets. It beggars belief, and is truly sickening.

Other countries could invoke their anti-discrimination legislation to prevent this carry on. Not that they'd need to. Society just would not countenance or tolerate it. Can you imagine a parade of black and white minstrels going down Fifth Avenue in New York or Shaftesbury Avenue in London? There would be justifiable uproar.

What is wrong with these people? It's bad enough that ethnic minorities are so marginalised and ghettoised in this country without having to endure the festooning of homes and offices with racist caricatures, and a parade through the town. What's next? Klansmen?

And spare me the whiny claptrap about it being 'traditional'. It was traditional for women not to be allowed to vote. It was traditional to live in caves and to have doctors tie a spider and walnut around your neck to cure cancer. (Okay, maybe that last one is still traditional).

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

New Amsterdam

I just got back from New York. It was great to spend a few days in a modern, functioning, urban environment. Eating great, flavoursome food; mixing with different communities and races; receiving great service; experiencing an array of consumer choices; being allowed to drink coffee and shop - at the same time!

Somewhat surprisingly though, it felt weird not to be surrounded by Dutch people. The only time I encountered any was on the Staten Island Ferry. It's free, by the way.

Perhaps it was this sense of dislocation that drew me to an exhibition on the Lower East Side about life in New York under the original Dutch settlers? Did you know that the Dutch founded New York and that it was originally called New Amsterdam? Until the Brits kicked them out. I couldn't help wondering what life would have been like in New York if this hadn't happened and if the Dutch had remained in charge?

Visiting the exhibit led to an incredibly strong sense of deja-vu. It was like I had stepped back 400 years from present-day New York, right back to present-day Amsterdam. The rooms in the exhibit looked eerily like any doctor's surgery in contemporary Amsterdam - complete with rusty pliers and jars of pickled leeches. I could almost imagine hearing the figures in the exhibit whispering "it is not posssshiboll..."

Typical 17th century meals of potatoes and dumplings were shown. Obviously, they were not real food, but grey, lumpy copies of the real thing - again, uncannily like what's served in many of today's Amsterdam restaurants!

Stuffed dummies dressed in laughably outdated clothes were positioned around the display. As I stared into their vacuous, expressionless eyes, and waited for the dummies to move, however imperceptibly, I had to reassure myself I wasn't in a contemporary Amsterdam shop or cafe, waiting to be served.

So what if the Big Apple had, instead, become the Big Herring? How different would things be?